Cosmetology Written Exam guideHair care and services
Shampoo, Conditioning, Scalp Treatments, and Draping for the Cosmetology Exam
How the NIC theory exam tests the hair care basics: draping for each service, matching shampoo and conditioner to the hair, scalp massage movements and when to skip them, practitioner ergonomics, and what belongs on a client card.
Short answer
Shampooing and conditioning, scalp treatments and massage, and draping are named lines in Hair Care and Services, the 45% NIC domain, alongside tool safety, ergonomics, and client records. Questions usually ask you to choose: the drape that protects during a chemical service, the product that fits the hair's condition, when to skip scalp massage, and what to write on the client card after a service or a reaction.
The hair care basics in the NIC theory outline
NIC's current theory bulletin (effective July 1, 2022, revised January 1, 2026) lists these skills under Hair Care and Services:
- shampooing and conditioning
- scalp treatments and scalp massage
- draping for chemical, shampoo, cutting, and styling services
- differences in hair care for various hair types and textures
The same domain lists supplies such as towels, drapes, and neck strips, asks for safe practices with tools and for ergonomics, and asks you to establish and maintain client records, naming service history, the client card, and medical history. These lines often turn up inside scenarios about color, relaxers, and cuts rather than on their own, which is why they are worth getting automatic.
Draping by service: what each drape protects against
Draping protects the client's skin and clothing. The NIC practical scores whether you maintain the thermal drape, the haircutting drape, and the chemical drape throughout each section, and PSI's national outline lists "protective chemical barriers and draping for clients." The layers your school teaches may differ, but each drape has a job:
| Service | What the drape has to do |
|---|---|
| Shampoo | Keep water off the neck and clothing |
| Chemical service (color, relaxer, wave) | Keep chemicals off the skin and clothing, with a waterproof layer and something absorbent at the neckline to catch drips |
| Haircut | Keep loose hair off the client and let it fall away, with the cape kept off the skin |
| Thermal styling | Protect the neck and shoulders while hot tools work close to them |
Keeping the cape off the skin is a rule, not just a habit. Texas, for example, requires either a clean one-use cape for each client or a sanitary neck strip or towel that keeps the cape from touching the client's neck. Paper neck strips are porous, so they go in the trash after one client. Draping sits inside the largest domain, and the largest share of planned full prep, 382 Hair Care and Services questions, reflects that weight.
Choosing shampoo and conditioner for the hair in front of you
Product choice starts with pH. The 2015 review "Hair Cosmetics: An Overview" says alkaline solutions swell the hair and open the cuticle scales, and a 2014 article by the same lead author recommends following a shampoo above pH 5.5 with a low-pH conditioner, so the static charge is neutralized and the cuticle scales may be sealed. The pH and chemistry guide works through the math.
The pairings below apply what those two papers report. They are teaching examples, not product recommendations.
| Hair or scalp in front of you | What the research says | Product logic |
|---|---|---|
| Hair just washed with a higher-pH shampoo | Shampoos above pH 5.5 may increase friction and frizz (2014 article) | Finish with a conditioner, preferably a low-pH one |
| Bleached or chemically treated hair | Takes up conditioning ingredients more readily than virgin hair (2015 review) | Use conditioner; treated hair binds it readily |
| Curly or tightly coiled hair | Leave-on products can be used during wet combing, and curly hair is more prone to an oily scalp with drier lengths (2015 review) | Cleanse the scalp, use a leave-on product on the lengths |
| Fine, straight, untreated hair | Leave-on products can make it look oily and dull (2015 review) | Choose lighter, rinse-out conditioning |
| Just before a chemical service | FDA says not to scratch or brush the scalp for three days before dyeing or relaxing | Handle the scalp gently and follow the chemical product's directions |
Scalp treatments target the scalp's condition, such as dryness or oiliness, not disease. If you see round, scaly patches with broken-off hairs, MedlinePlus describes that pattern for ringworm of the scalp, which spreads through direct contact and shared items such as combs and hats. Do not shampoo or treat. Decline the service, suggest a physician, and clean and disinfect your tools. The hair and scalp disorders guide covers more of those decisions.
Scalp massage movements and when to skip them
Massage research describes classic Swedish massage with five techniques, and you should recognize each by its description. A 2020 review notes that slow movements such as effleurage, kneading, and friction were recommended for relaxation, while tapotement and vibration are the dynamic, stimulating ones. Exam bulletins use the same names: the Texas PSI practical, for example, scores effleurage, petrissage, and tapotement during its facial.
| Movement | What it looks like |
|---|---|
| Effleurage | Slow stroking |
| Petrissage | Kneading the tissue |
| Friction | Rubbing movements, including cross-fiber friction |
| Tapotement | Percussion, a dynamic tapping movement |
| Vibration | Shaking movements |
Knowing when to skip massage matters as much as the names. Texas bars services on a client the practitioner believes has a contagious condition, or inflamed, infected, broken, or swollen skin, or an open wound in the area, so massage over scalp abrasions or signs of infection is out. Before a dye or relaxer, gentle handling matters too, given FDA's advice not to scratch or brush the scalp beforehand. If a client reports a medical condition, follow your textbook's contraindication list and your state's rules rather than guessing. Massage names are classic recall material, and planned flashcards give Hair Care and Services 243 cards. The muscles under these movements are in the muscles, nerves, and circulation guide.
Ergonomics for the cosmetologist behind the chair
NIC lists ergonomics under safe practices in every service domain. The goal is to protect the practitioner's own body over thousands of services. Non-binding European guidelines for the hairdressing sector (European Commission and EU-OSHA, June 2021) suggest measures like these:
- adjust the styling chair or stool to the client's height, and adjust the height of the backwash unit
- use a palm-to-palm cutting technique, well-maintained scissors that fit your hand, and a lightweight dryer
- avoid long stretches of bending or twisting the wrists, lifting the arms above the shoulders, or bending forward
- vary tasks, alternate standing and sitting, and use a hairdressing stool where you can
- walk around the client instead of stretching, keep a comfortable working distance, and check your posture in the mirror
- wear gloves for wet work: the same guidelines link contact dermatitis to washing hair without gloves
An ergonomics item may describe a stylist with pain or an awkward posture and ask for the adjustment. Pick the answer that changes the setup rather than the one that asks the stylist to push through.
What belongs on the client card
The outline names service history, the client card, and medical history. A complete record holds:
- contact details and the date of each visit
- allergies, sensitivities, and past reactions
- medications or conditions the client reports that can rule out a service, such as isotretinoin before waxing, since MedlinePlus advises avoiding waxing during treatment and for 6 months after
- products, formulas, and processing times used
- the result and date of every predisposition or strand test
- what you recommended and anything the client declined
Past results matter. FDA warns that a hair dye reaction can happen even when someone has used dye before without a problem, and that the skin test belongs before every use. A card that shows only "no reaction in 2024" does not replace today's test.
Here is a record in one fictional case. Teresa notices mild redness and itching along her hairline at the end of a color service. After you follow the product's directions and your salon's procedure, the card should show the product and formula, where and when the redness appeared, what you did, what you told her (for example, to see a physician if it continues or worsens), and a clear flag before her next color appointment. Write what you saw, not a diagnosis. Once you can list those entries without looking, check the after-reaction client-card item in the free cosmetology set. The consultation and patch test guide covers the tests themselves.
Record-keeping items are easy to miss once and then forget. In planned full prep, missed questions are saved in Fix It for another try, so a weak spot like this one comes back until you get it right.
Trust the source
Official sources
Exam policies can change. Use these primary sources for the most current details.
- National Cosmetology Theory Examination CIB (effective July 1, 2022; revised January 1, 2026)NIC↗
- National Cosmetology Practical Examination CIB (effective July 1, 2022; revised January 1, 2026)NIC↗
- 16 Tex. Admin. Code § 83.102, Health and Safety Standards: General RequirementsTexas Department of Licensing and Regulation (via Cornell Law School LII)↗
- Hair Cosmetics: An Overview (2015)International Journal of Trichology (full text via Europe PMC)↗
- The Shampoo pH can Affect the Hair: Myth or Reality? (2014)International Journal of Trichology (full text via Europe PMC)↗
- Effect of Single Session of Swedish Massage on Circulating Levels of Interleukin-6 and Insulin-like Growth Factor 1 (2024)International Journal of Molecular Sciences (full text via Europe PMC)↗
- Selective Effects of Manual Massage and Foam Rolling on Perceived Recovery and Performance (2020)Frontiers in Physiology (full text via Europe PMC)↗
- Texas Cosmetology Operator Candidate Information Bulletin (January 1, 2026)PSI Services LLC↗
- California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology Candidate Information Bulletin (April 2026)PSI Services LLC↗
- Non-binding Guidelines for the Hairdressing Sector (June 2021)European Commission and European Agency for Safety and Health at Work (EU-OSHA)↗
- Hair DyesU.S. Food and Drug Administration↗
- Ringworm of the scalpMedlinePlus (National Library of Medicine)↗
- IsotretinoinMedlinePlus (National Library of Medicine)↗