Cosmetology Written Exam guideSkin and nail services
Hair Removal and Makeup for the Cosmetology Theory Exam
What the NIC theory exam expects on waxing, tweezing, threading, and makeup: the medication and skin checks that come before wax, makeup hygiene that prevents eye infections, and why FDA warns against dyeing brows and lashes.
Short answer
On the NIC National Cosmetology Theory Examination, hair removal and makeup belong to Skin Care and Services, which is 10% of the exam. The questions turn on safety. Ask about medications and skin conditions before waxing, and do not wax skin that a medicine's directions say to keep wax off. Use single-use or disinfected applicators for makeup. Never use hair dye on eyebrows or eyelashes: its required caution says that may cause blindness, and the only color additive FDA permits for brow and lash tinting is silver nitrate in professional-use products.
Where waxing and makeup appear in the NIC theory outline
NIC's current bulletin (effective July 1, 2022, revised January 1, 2026) lists two plain lines under Skin Care and Services: "Apply knowledge of hair removal" and "Apply knowledge of makeup application." The same domain lists wax among its supplies, tweezers and brushes among its implements, and asks you to recognize contraindications and keep client records that include medical history. The whole domain is 10% of the exam, and NIC does not split it further. NIC still posts this bulletin as of October 28, 2026 and has announced no replacement, so the same lines apply to a 2027 candidate in an NIC state.
California's PSI exam weights these topics more heavily. Under the outline in use there since April 1, 2026, Hair Removal is 8% and Eyelash and Eyebrow is 4%. If your state uses that exam, the NIC vs PSI comparison shows how to shift study time.
Waxing contraindications: the consultation questions that come first
Wax pulls hair from the follicle, and the California board warns that some skin layers can thin and lift off when waxed, especially after other recent services or with certain skin care products or medicines. Anything that makes skin thinner, more fragile, or already irritated raises the risk of lifting, tearing, or burning skin. That is why medication questions come before the wax pot.
Public drug information makes the point directly:
- Topical retinoids. The prescribing information for one prescription retinoid acne gel, on the National Library of Medicine's DailyMed, says that "as with other retinoids," waxing as a hair-removal method should be avoided on treated skin.
- Oral isotretinoin. MedlinePlus tells people taking it to plan to avoid hair removal by waxing, laser skin treatments, and dermabrasion while on the medicine and for 6 months afterward, because it raises the risk of scarring.
- Topical tretinoin. MedlinePlus tells users not to use hair removers, among other topical products, unless their doctor directs.
The California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology's consumer waxing tips (revised April 2025) give a broader do-not-wax list. It is one state's guidance, but it reads like a contraindication chart. Among other items, it lists irritated or inflamed skin and open wounds; legs with varicose veins; any area with a rash, recent scar tissue, a skin graft, a cold sore, a mole, a wart, or a pimple; areas that received injections; skin waxed in the last 24 hours; areas recently treated with salicylic, glycolic, or alpha hydroxy acid products; skin after microdermabrasion, dermabrasion, or chemical peels; and sunburned skin or a tanning bed in the last 24 hours. It tells clients with diabetes, phlebitis, or a blood-thinner prescription to consult their doctor first.
| What the client says or shows | Exam-safe decision |
|---|---|
| Uses a prescription retinoid on the area to be waxed | Do not wax that area; record it and suggest the client ask the prescriber what hair removal is safe |
| Stopped oral isotretinoin two months ago | Do not wax; the six-month window has not passed |
| Sunburn, a rash, or broken skin on the area | Postpone the service for that area |
| An active cold sore near the lip | Postpone a lip wax; oral herpes spreads by contact |
| Diabetes or a blood thinner | Ask the client to check with a doctor before waxing, and record it |
| No relevant medications and healthy, intact skin | Proceed, following the product label and your state's rules |
Read the wax product's own label as well, and follow its warnings and directions for use.
Here is the reasoning in one fictional case. Dana books an eyebrow wax. Her intake form lists a prescription retinoid cream she uses on her face each night. You do not need to know why it was prescribed. Retinoid prescribing information warns against waxing treated skin, so you decline the wax today, note the medication on her card, and suggest she ask her prescriber which hair-removal methods are safe while she uses it. After you can explain that decision in your own words, work the isotretinoin waxing question in the free cosmetology practice set, then move to Skin Care and Services practice planned for full cosmetology prep for the rest of the domain.
Waxing, sugaring, tweezing, threading, and depilatories compared
The NIC outline does not list methods by name, but your reference textbook does, and PSI's California outline names depilatories, waxing, sugaring, tweezing, and threading. California's curriculum names all of them except threading.
| Method | What the sources say | What questions focus on |
|---|---|---|
| Waxing (soft strip wax and hard wax) | Named in PSI's outline and California's curriculum; your reference text compares the two wax types and the areas each suits | The contraindications above, the label's directions, and no double-dipping |
| Sugaring | Named in PSI's outline and California's curriculum | The same consultation checks as waxing |
| Tweezing | NIC lists tweezers as an implement with its own infection-control procedure | Clean and disinfect tweezers between clients |
| Threading | Named in PSI's outline | A fresh thread for each client |
| Depilatories | Chemical hair removers; the Cosmetic Ingredient Review found the hydroxides used in them safe under recommended use, with users minimizing skin contact | Follow label directions and testing, keep them off broken skin, and remember that MedlinePlus tells tretinoin users to avoid hair removers unless their doctor directs |
Infection control applies to every wax service, and the California board's tips spell it out: the licensee washes hands, wears gloves, uses a clean wax pot, throws away disposable items such as wax sticks right after use, and never double-dips into the wax pot. State law sets scope, too. California's cosmetology curriculum, for example, includes removing hair by waxing, tweezing, sugaring, and depilatories, but excludes lasers and light-based devices.
Makeup hygiene: the FDA points that become exam answers
FDA's eye cosmetic safety page is written for consumers, but each point has a salon version.
| FDA consumer point | Salon version you should choose on the exam |
|---|---|
| Don't share or swap eye cosmetics; testers carry extra contamination risk, so use single-use applicators | Use disposable applicators and never apply from a shared product directly to a client's face |
| Bacteria on hands can cause eye infections | Wash hands before the service and keep fingers off the product |
| Don't add saliva or water to moisten mascara | Use a fresh disposable wand for each client and each dip |
| Don't use old eye cosmetics; makers often advise discarding mascara two to four months after purchase | Keep products within the manufacturer's shelf life |
| Avoid eye cosmetics when the eye is infected or the skin around it is inflamed | Postpone eye makeup until the area has healed |
| Kohl contains salts of heavy metals such as antimony and lead and is unapproved for cosmetic use in the United States | Use only color additives approved for use near the eye |
| False lashes and extensions need adhesives | Check adhesive ingredients and ask about allergies before applying |
Decanting creams, powders, and liquids onto a clean palette with a clean spatula keeps fingers and used applicators out of the original container. That habit answers most "how should you apply this product" questions, and explanations grounded in FDA guidance, planned for launch, walk through the same hygiene reasoning item by item.
Eyebrow and eyelash tints: the FDA caution and the state rules
FDA's rule for brow and lash color is narrow. Coal-tar hair dyes must carry a caution that they must not be used to dye eyelashes or eyebrows because doing so may cause blindness. FDA's eye cosmetic page adds that permanent lash and brow tints and dyes have caused serious eye injuries, including blindness. The only color additive FDA permits for coloring eyebrows and eyelashes is silver nitrate, and only within these limits (21 CFR 73.2550):
- a professional-use product with no more than 4% silver nitrate
- applied by a professional for no more than 1 minute, then removed
- for people 16 and older
- never sold directly to consumers
FDA's Hair Dyes page still says no color additives are approved for brow or lash dyeing, which predates that 2021 rule; the regulation and FDA's Eye Cosmetic Safety page show the silver nitrate listing. FDA also has an import alert on lash and brow dyes that contain coal-tar colors.
At the same time, some states license lash and brow services. California's cosmetology curriculum includes tinting and perming eyelashes and brows, and PSI's California outline includes safe use of eyebrow and eyelash tinting products. Follow FDA's limits, use only products made and labeled for brow and lash tinting, and follow your state's rules on lash and brow services. On any exam, a question about using a hair dye made for the scalp on eyebrows or eyelashes has one safe answer: don't.
The predisposition-test logic for hair color is in the haircolor theory guide, and skin findings that stop a service are in the skin care and facials guide. When you review, missed-question review planned for full cosmetology prep keeps the tint and waxing items you get wrong in one place for another try.
Trust the source
Official sources
Exam policies can change. Use these primary sources for the most current details.
- National Cosmetology Theory Examination CIB (effective July 1, 2022; revised January 1, 2026)NIC↗
- 21 CFR 73.2550, Silver nitrate (color additive for eyebrows and eyelashes)Electronic Code of Federal Regulations (eCFR)↗
- EPIDUO FORTE (adapalene and benzoyl peroxide) gel: prescribing informationDailyMed (National Library of Medicine)↗
- IsotretinoinMedlinePlus (National Library of Medicine)↗
- Tretinoin TopicalMedlinePlus (National Library of Medicine)↗
- Safety Assessment of Inorganic Hydroxides as Used in Cosmetics (final report, January 2016)Cosmetic Ingredient Review (hosted by FDA)↗
- Waxing Safety Tips (revised April 2025)California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology↗
- Eye Cosmetic SafetyU.S. Food and Drug Administration↗
- Hair DyesU.S. Food and Drug Administration↗
- License RequirementsCalifornia Board of Barbering and Cosmetology↗
- Notification of Update to Examinations (November 21, 2025)California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology↗